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Ft. Myers Beach and Sanibel Island: Miles of Beaches and So Little Time

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Southwest Florida spreads like a blanket of sand and warmth along the state’s southernmost shoreline. Starting around Port Charlotte in the north and tripping along a continuum of cities and beach towns all the way to the Everglades, Southwest Florida Gulf of Mexico is a vacationing paradise for any tourist seeking adventure and relaxation at a variety of different locations.

Scuba diving is popular in the nearby Gulf of Mexico. Temperatures in the Gulf vary from 60 degrees in December and reach as high as 87 degrees in August. Visibility can be as low as 5 feet, but reaches above 50 depending on the season, site, or distance from shore. An old expanse of sandy white seabed stretches to about forever, making it seem like an unnatural wasteland. But there are oases to be found here and there. More than a dozen artificial reefs lie within a 15 mile radius of Sanibel and Captiva making these Florida barrier islands great for snorkeling and scuba diving.

Local diver Jon Hazelbaker, is a former commercial diver and worked on the safety crew for the USS Mohawk sinking and has been diving in the Ft. Myers/Sanibel area for the past 14 years. When asked for some of his favorite sites, Hazelbaker was quick to point out his favorites are closely guarded secrets. Spear fishermen protect their sites and their locations. They often call them their “honey holes” and are usually unwilling to reveal the location to others. These sites are some of the best, but you will need to partner up with a local for a chance to find them.

Kyle Ezerins, captain of Reel Fish and Sea Charters based out of Ft. Myers, is relatively new to the dive charter business. Ezerins is one of several new charters that has sprung up since the Mohawk’s sinking; he opened his business last March and is now celebrating his first anniversary. While Ezerins is new to chartering, he is not new to diving in the Ft Myers/Sanibel area – he has more than 22 years of local diving experience. His 36 ft. boat carries six divers comfortably and he is steadily building a reputation as a capable and fun captain.

Matt Angelo, the general manager at ScubaVice, a NAUI tech and Rec facility more than 40 years old and the areas oldest still running dive shop, is a big fan of local diving. The crew teaches a full gamut of courses and caters to the local diving crowd including spear fishermen. According to Angelo, the Mohawk has been a boom to the local economy.  There have been several businesses that have sprung up since the sinking.  
“Spearfishing is huge here,” says Angelo. “The largest spearfishing tournament in the world is held just a few miles down the coast in St Petersburg.”

Mark Garcy, owner of Naples Marina and Excursions, and Reef 1 Up Charters, has been in the dive business since 200. Garcy has extensive experience in the local waters, both leading dives and training new divers. He has a practical approach to local diving. “It is all about both time and money for us and our customers”, says Garcy. “We need to get divers on the sites that they are prepared for in order to dive safely. But we also need to work quickly as most divers don’t want their trip to take all day.”

Jim Joseph, NAUI Course Director, has been diving the local area for more than 20 years. He and his wife Julie own Fantasea Scuba, a full service NAUI tech and rec facility since 1993. He enjoys spearfishing, technical diving, and rebreather diving.  According to Joseph, the Ft. Myers and Sanibel area is great for diving. “The sheer number and variety of fish is incredible! You never know what you are going to see,” he exclaims.

Mike Campbell, senior environmental specialist for Lee County Department of Natural Resources has been heading up the artificial reef program for the past three years. In that time, he has established himself as leader in the artificial reefing community and with the sinking of the Mohawk in July has brought new attention to the treasures that wait beneath the surface. The earliest documented cases of organized reef construction in Lee County are from the late 1960s.

Russ Crocker, owner of Buccaneer Adventures, has been diving in the Ft. Myers area for more than 30 years. Doing dive charters since 1987, Crocker has lots of experience diving and leading dives in these local waters. He caters to mostly vacationers from the Northeast and Midwest. According to Crocker, these divers are more accustomed to the visibility in these waters.  “I think that many locals compare us to the Keys and often send our customers there because they feel that it is better diving,” he explains. “Well, it isn’t. Sure, the waters clearer and the corals are there, but it’s many hours away. There is great diving right here. My Midwest and Northeast customers feel comfortable with the vis and they love the diving – it is all about attitude.”

The Mohawk
The 165’ “A” class Mohawk was built in 1934 by Pusey & Jones Corp., Wilmington, Delaware and put on patrol and ice breaking duties on the Hudson and Delaware rivers until the outbreak of World War II. At that time an executive order directed her to serve as part of the U.S. Naval forces being assigned to the North Atlantic escort operations with the Greenland Patrol fleet. They were involved in 14 attacks against Nazi submarines. She and her crew rescued more than 300 survivors from torpedoed ships in the icy waters and was the last vessel to radio General Dwight Eisenhower that the weather would be clear enough to launch the invasion of Normandy on June 6, 1955. Mohawk is the last remaining ship of her kind and is the Memorial Ship of the “Battle of the Atlantic.” Following her distinguished wartime career, she was placed “in reserve, in commission” service until being decommissioned in 1948.

One of Mohawk’s most famous deeds was being the last ship to radio General Dwight D. Eisenhower on the day before the Normandy invasion confirming that the weather was going to be clear enough to proceed. Unfortunately, she hit an iceberg shortly after the message was sent and sustained a hole in her side. After a temporary fix in Greenland, she returned to the United States for permanent repairs to the hull.
Mohawk also survived a friendly fire attack from British planes. While on patrol near Iceland, she was misidentified by British planes, which bombed her, damaging the main deck. She returned to Boston for emergency repairs.

At the end of the War, she was transferred to her old homeport of Cape May, after her war-time armament was removed, she was stationed at Cape May, from 25 November until 5 January 1946, when she proceeded to New York on special duty. She returned to Cape May on 19 February 1946. On 6 April 1946 Mohawk was ordered to be placed "in reserve, in commission" status, with a skeleton crew, at Cape May, New Jersey.

There was some discussion of converting Mohawk and her sister cutters into lightships but this was eventually deemed to be impractical. On 8 October 1947 Mohawk was ordered to be decommissioned and placed in storage at the Coast Guard Yard.

She was declared "surplus to needs of CG" on 13 July 1948 and was put up for sale. She was sold on 1 November 1948 to the Delaware Bay and River Pilots' Association, and was used as a pilot boat on the Delaware River for more than 30 years.

The Mohawk was taken in ownership by Caribbean Transport Lines in lieu of back payment for mooring fees on Staten Island. The ship's plight was shared with the nation via the National Trust for Historic Preservation's Preservation911 Program in 2001.[1]  In XXX The USS Mohawk was turned into a floating Museam. The CGC Memorial Museum was founded by the Miami Dade Historical Maritime Museum and was berthed in Key West, where she was berthed at the inner quay wall, at the old Navy pier in the Truman Waterfront. In July 2,  2012,  the "Mighty MO"  was  scuttled 28 miles off the coast of Lee County in its final service as a Veteran's Memorial artificial reef.

Now sunk in 90 ft of water, 28 miles off Redfish Pass, the former warship is loaded with life.  Her 165 frame  is filled with Goliath grouper,  mangrove snapper, Cobia, Amber Jacks and more. The Mohawk has been populated with life faster than any ship reef recorded. The fish life on the Mohawk is amazing said Brent Argabright, owner of Dean’s Dive Center in Ft Myers for the last 21 years.  Dean’s is a full service PADI IDC dive center that has been training divers and leading dives in the area for more than 20 years. According to Argabright, the dive is has been fantastic from day one.  

Local diver John Hazelbaker is a former commerical diver who volunteerd on the safety crew for the Mohawk’s sinking. Hazelbaker was one of the first divers on the wreck when it went down, verifying that all explosives were detonated.  Even within minutes of sinking, already the wreck was beginning to attract live” said Hazelbaker.   Hazelbaker and others from the area are also fans of the spot that the artificial reef team chose to sink the Mohawk.  The site is nearly 30 miles from shore but the deep clear waters make it “worth the ride” explained Hazelbaker.  This is a great area – the Charlie’s reef complex has several dives in it that make it a destination all by itself” Hazelbaker explained.  

Kyle Ezerins also loves the Mohawk.  “It has amazing life on it for such a new wreck “ says Ezerins.  you can see turtles, stingrays and even whale sharks. In August 2012, several whale sharks were sited at the Mohawk.  According to Ezerins, the whale shark came up to the platform 3 times – “they are not shy” said Ezerins.

Dive Briefing:
There are mooring buoys installed on the bow and the stern. Expect to tie off on one of them.  After determining the ships orientation, the divemaster or boat captain will brief the divers, show a map of the dive site, and initial orientation.  The ship is siting on a relatively flat bottom, completely upright.  Divers can decent to the deck running along the ship at 65 ft. The smokestack is open at the base of the deck, divers can swim into it and swim up to the tower at 30 ft, making an really cool ascent to the surface. Properly training and equipped divers can easily penetrate the wreck, visiting the engine room, crews quarters and galley.

Tips and Suggestions:
Divers should carry a flashlight, looking in small spaces for a variety of life that has inhabited the wreck.

Hazards:
Due to the ships depth, 60-90 ft, divers need to be aware how much bottom time they are accumulating and nitrogen loading. Divers should consider using Nitrox on this dive as it adds safety and available dive time.   While the wreck has been especially prepared for divers, they should not penetrate the wreck unless they have the training, equipment and skills to do so safely.  There is also fishing line on the wreck, bring a dive knife or shears.

Saltwater Hot Springs
This site, located 15 miles off of Sanibel Island, is a natural spring that bubbles up in 40 ft of water.  According to Mark Garcy, at Naples Marina and Excursions, this spring originates in the Atlantic, runs underneath the everglades gathering heat and then bubbles up less than 15 miles from shore.  There is life here that you won’t see anywhere else says Garcy. The 40-65 ft depth makes this dive an awesome training dive and all around dive site – it is fantastic says Garcy.

Dive Briefing:
Dives can expect the captain to anchor at this site. The bottom starts at 40 ft with rim of the wall and descends from there.  Divers can swim around the rim of the hole like a reef, looking down into the sink hole.  they will need to use their flashlights to see the incredible life along the walls. 

Tips or Suggestions:
This is a freshwater spring and divers should be aware that they may become negatively buoyant while in the hole. 

The Blue Hole
Located 8 miles south of the Mohawk, near the Charlie’s Reef complex is the Blue Hole.  A freshwater sink hole spring, the sink hole is an amazing dive site.  Relatively small, it covers 150-200 ft in diameter.  is 90ft-180 ft deep divers are able to swim around the surface of the hole in one dive. The limestone sides are encrusted  are covered with a variety of sealife and shells including Spiney Oysters, Lace Oysters,  Shovelnosed Lobsters,  The site also has a variety of pelagic visitors including Goliath groups, jacks, Cobia and more.   Hazelbaker also loves the Blue Hole and says it is a “fantastic dive” with numerous fish including Cobia, grouper, Jacks, and Slipper lobster.

Dive Site Briefing:
Divers can expect to do live drop at this site down a line marked by the Captain.  The bottom starts at 90ft with rim of the wall and decends from there.  Divers can swim around the rim of the hole like a reef, looking down into the sink hole.  Tech trained divers may descend deeper in the sink hole like a wall dive, out of the current, they will need to use their flashlights to see the incredible life along the walls.  

Tips or Suggestions:
Bring a flashlight on this dive. Due to the depth, divers should use Nitrox to maximize safety and available bottom time.  This is a freshwater spring and divers should be aware that they may become negatively buoyant while in the hole.  

The Fantastico
Located in 105-115 feet of water, about 46 miles off Sanibel Island,  an advanced wreck dive site this 200 foot freighter sank in 1993 during "storm of the century" in 1993, losing four of its crew in the process. The wreck has broken into two sections and is generally flattened.  The mast, rudder, propeller and rigging are still visible, but the main hull has collapsed on itself. The storm of the century in 1993 this freighter sank while transporting a load of fertilizer from Miami to Tampa. Of a crew of 10, only 3 were rescued. She lies on her starboard side with her midsection collapsed..  Capt Ezerins loves the fantastico, says that the site is one of his favorites. “You never know what you will see on this wreck. It has tremendous fish life on it. You can see snapper, grouper, cobia and even Hammerheads on this site. It is absolutely spectacular” says Ezerins.   Jim Joeseph owner of Fantasea Scuba in Ft Myers loves the Fantasitco too.   The abundance of fishlife on this wreck is amazing says Joeseph.  Don’t take my word for it, jokes Joeseph, come watch the video.  Joeseph has a variety of videos on local sites on his website.

Dive Site Briefing:
Dives can expect the captain to anchor on this site. After spotting the wreck, divers will be briefed and swim down to the wreck. Starting at 90 ft, they can swim in any direction around the wreck. While penetration is still possible in some areas, due to the age of the wreck, divers should stay out of overhead environments.  Any spearfishing on the wreck should be accomplished with shots away from the wreck.  

Tips and Suggestions:
Divers should carry a flashlight, dive knife and surface marker buoy or signaling device on this site.  A flashlight will help illuminate the darker crevices, and little cracks in the wreckage.  Look for fishing line and entanglement hazards, use the dive knife or sheers as appropriate.  Finally, remember, this site like many other is out in the open ocean. While getting lost or left behind is extremely rare, divers should be prepared, especially if blown off the wreck and having to do a hanging safety stop. Divers can end up several hundred yards from the wreck and have to signal the dive boat. Having a signaling device like the Nautilus Lifeline is a definite plus.

The Black Hole
Located 25 miles west of Marco Island, this site is another of the many sink holes in the area.  This one is one of Mark Garcy from Naples Marina and Excursions favorites.  Starting in 62 ft of water, the hole descends to more than 200 ft, making it a technical site as well.  The site is suitable for all levels of divers, we take open waters thru technical divers to this site, says Garcy. You can see an abundance of corals near the ledge with fire scallops,  Large pelagics swim over the site including schools of Baracuda, snapper,  and ever present Goliath Grouper.  This is a fantastic site says Garcy.

Dive Briefing:
Divers can expect to do live drop at this site down a line marked by the Captain.  The bottom starts at 60ft with rim of the wall and decends from there.  Divers can swim around the rim of the hole like a reef, looking down into the sink hole.  Tech trained divers may descend deeper in the sink hole like a wall dive, out of the current, they will need to use their flashlights to see the incredible life along the walls.  

Tips or Suggestions:
Bring a flashlight on this dive. Due to the depth, divers should use Nitrox to maximize safety and available bottom time.  This is a freshwater spring and divers should be aware that they may become negatively buoyant while in the hole.  

240 Ledge
Located 20 miles off Sanibel Island, the 240 deg ledge is a long limestone natural reef that has a variety of undercuts, swim unders and outcroppings making it a haven for fish life. Diver drift along the site for more than 2 miles, making repeated dives along its 70ft depth.  According to Brent Argabrite, divers can see incredible life including Moray eels, Goliath groupers, black and red grouper,  Hogfish, Snapper, amberjack, cobia and more make this site a fantastic dive and one of his favorites.  “This is a great spot for spearfishing or site seeing – it is just fantastic. It is easily accessible, everyone can find it and it is teaming with life” said Argabrite.

Dive Briefing:
Divers can expect a live drop at this site with the captains often marking a spot with a drop line.  Following the line to the sea floor, divers swim with the current, drifting the long site.  The gentle current allow divers to pause to take photos or spearfishing shots as they cover the site.  When bottom time forces an ascent, dives come up, do a 15 ft safety stop and get back on the boat.   Expect to do a surface interval on the boat.

Tips or Suggestions:
Due to length of the site, more than 2 miles, divers can make repeated dives to the site while drifting.  Bring a flashlight to look under the variety of undercuts and relief on the site.  The relief varies from 3ft to more than 15. In the deeper cuts, you can see snovelnosed lobsters,    As divers drift along the site, it changes in places. According to Argubrite, it seems different on every dive.  “you come to an oacis that is very dense with life, then it kind of peters out – only to return more than before – literally boiling with life. This site is awesome” said Argubrite.

Hazards:
This site is about 20 mile off shore. Any divers should carry knife or sheers and a surface signaling device. While getting lost out here is extremely rare, divers should be prepared.  Keep track of location, depth and time.  Ascend with a comfortable safety margin.  This is a popular spearfishing and fishing site. The local fisherman are used to sharing space with divers but allow extra room when sharing. 

Baja California
One of the region's most popular wrecks is the Baja California, which came to rest in 115 feet of water. A 266-foot freighter, the now-tattered Baja received a single torpedo to her bow in 1942 from U-84 of the German wolf pack. The wreck is a habitat of choice for large numbers of groupers and snappers, as well as for many varieties of pelagic fish. The wreck is also a noted hot spot for underwater hunters.

ARC Reef
This large site, about 10 miles off shore, is a complex of artificial reefing materials that has been in progress since 1994. Added to over the years, the sites is a jumble of over 14 different individual structures, from Reef balls, tetrahedrons, colvert pipes, barges and even a sculpture that is set to be sunk late in 2013. According to Mike Campbell, Lee County’s artificial reef coordinator,  This is an amazing dive if you want to see big fish.  In area called the towers, a series of 25 ft former cell phone towers, it is common to see 10-20 300lb Goliath Groupers on one dive.  

Dive Site Briefing:
Located ten miles from shore, the site is massive, about a ½ square mile. Captains will generally anchor or send a divemaster down to verify their position and mark the site. After the briefing, divers will descend down the line to the bottom at 45-50 ft depending on the exact site. This a great area for beginning and intermediate divers” said Campbell.  The near shore waters are mostly green water with reduced visibility of 25-30 ft generally by sometime of the year the currents can bring blue waters that have visibility in the 50-60 ft ranges.

Tips and Suggestions:
This site is huge so pay attention to the divemasters or captain’s briefing. Follow the guidance for the site. If spearfishing, take all shots away from reef structures. If don’t photography, be aware that others might be spearfishing and keep a wary eye out for them.  Bring a light as the green waters get dark fast with increased depth.

Hazards:
This site has a large variety of materials and they present a variety of entanglement hazards.. bring a good dive knife or shears for fishing line. Keep wary of spear fisherman and keep oriented on the site.

Pegasus
Also located in the Charlie’s Reef complex about 30 mile off Sanibel Island, 100 yards east of the Mohawk,  the Pegasus is a really popular dive site for many years. Sunk in 1999, the wreck is now part of the Lee County Veterans Reef program.  At 95 ft deep, the wreck is breaking up and beginning to show its age – still the 110 ft ocean going tug has a interesting history as a former casino office.  Diver can  see large amberjack, Hogfish, Cobia,   Angelo strongly advises against penetrating the wreck due to its advanced age and deterioration.   

Dive Briefing:
Dives can expect to anchor up at this site. Once the divemaster or captain has cleared the site, the briefing will commence and then divers can descend down the line to the wreck. Beginning in 80 ft of water, the bottom rests at 95 ft. Swim around the wreck with the current.  Angelo recommends that all divers dive these deeper sites on Nitrox. “Nitrox gives us more available bottom time, shorter surface intervals and a greater safety margin – we use it all the time” says Angelo. 

Tips and Suggestions:
Like most of the sites, this site is deep and divers should bring a light. While penetration is still possible, due to the age of the wreck, divers should be strongly advise NOT to penetrate the wreck.  Also, if divers are spearfishing, do not take any shots towards the wreck.  There are a variety of entanglement hazards beware and carry a sharp dive knife or shears.

Danger Reef
A shallow reef in 12-15 ft of water in Pine Island Sound,  this reef is an old steel tug boat.  This wreck has lots of smaller fish and invertebrate life on it. A great dive for beginning wreck divers due to the depth of the wreck.  Divers will see small species of fish at the site including bull sharks, nurse sharks etc.  The wreck is listing slightly to starboard.

Dive Briefing:
Typically dive boats make this one of the last dives of the day. After tying off to the wreck, the divemaster will brief the divers. Follow the recommendations of the divemaster or captain.  Descend down the anchor or down line to the wreck.  

Tips and Suggestions:
Divers can expect less visibility at the site, generally 5-15 ft in “green water” due to decreased depth and proximity of the shoreline. Be aware and remember that other divers may include spearfisherman at the site. Take no shots toward the wreck. Allow for plenty of room. Bring a light and look for smaller life. If you take your time, focus on smaller subjects, you will be surprised at how much life you will see. Sometimes the smaller stuff is even more interesting.

Hazards:
This wreck is very popular and generally has lots of divers on it. Easy to find, it is also covered with dragnets.  Carry a sharp knife or shears to remove any entanglements.

Hopper Cars (Box Cars)
Located 28 miles out, near the Mohawk,  the site is another one of the artificial reefs groups many projects.  25 large former freight cars line the bottom in a circular pattern.  John Hazelbaker loves this site, says that it is terrific.  You can see tons of Goliath Groupers from 30-500lbs at this site.  While locals tend to take these magnificent fish for granted, they seem to be everywhere.  They are still classified as endangered but have become ever present  - but someone from out of state or out of the country would be amazed at these incredible animals said Hazelbaker. 

Stoney Point
Located nearly 50 northwest of Sanibel Island, this 120 ft deep wreck offers tremendous sea life with big Amberjack, grouper, yellowtail snapper, cobia sighted regularly.  The wreck is big, covering several hundred feet.

Dive Briefing:
Dives can expect the captain to anchor on this site. After spotting the wreck, divers will be briefed and swim down to the wreck. Starting at 90 ft, they can swim in any direction around the wreck. While penetration is still possible in some areas, due to the age of the wreck, divers should stay out of overhead environments.  Any spearfishing on the wreck should be accomplished with shots away from the wreck.  According to Ezerins, divers should also be aware of some of the big preditors. They have figured out the spearfishing and will often poach the catch of unwary spearfisherman. Big bull sharks or groups will take our catch, we have to protect them. Sometime we fish this site at night to limit them explained Ezerins.

Tips and Suggestions:
Divers should carry a flashlight, dive knife and surface marker buoy or signaling device on this site.  A flashlight will help illuminate the darker crevices, and little cracks in the wreckage.  Look for fishing line and entanglement hazards, use the dive knife or sheers as appropriate.  Finally, remember, this site like many other is out in the open ocean. While getting lost or left behind is extremely rare, divers should be prepared, especially if blown off the wreck and having to do a hanging safety stop. Divers can end up several hundred yards from the wreck and have to signal the dive boat. Having a signaling device like the Nautilus Lifeline is a definite plus.

Edison Bridge
Created from the rubble of a former bridge that separated the mainland from North Ft. Myers in 1993, Edison Bridge was built less than 15 nautical miles from the Sanibel Lighthouse in 40-45 ft. of water. According to Angelo, one of his instructors goes to Edison and brings home a big fish nearly every time. The massive site has had numerous sightings of sailfish as well as other large fish.

School Bus Area
Located 12 miles from shore, this site is composed of large pilings stacked like Lincoln Logs and an old Blue Bird Bus, hence the name. A large area, about a ½ mile square, the site has tremendous fish life and is popular with local divers.

As you can tell, the Ft. Myers area is a must for avid divers seeking adventure and excitement! It’s a sight right out of a postcard – dive in!